How to Fix a Leaky Faucet (Kitchen or Bathroom)

A dripping faucet at one drop per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water per year. That is roughly $20-30 added to your water bill annually, and the constant drip will slowly drive you insane. The fix is almost always a worn-out internal part that costs $3-10 to replace.

Before you call a plumber ($150-250 for this repair), try fixing it yourself. Most leaky faucets take 20-30 minutes and require only basic tools. All you need is an affordable cordless drill and a few common supplies.

Identify Your Faucet Type

The fix depends on which type of faucet you have. Here is how to tell:

Compression faucet — Has two separate handles, one for hot and one for cold. Oldest and most common type in older homes. You tighten the handle to shut off flow.

Ball faucet — Single handle that moves over a rounded ball-shaped cap just above the base. Common in kitchens. The handle moves in any direction.

Cartridge faucet — Single or double handle. Feels smooth and consistent when you turn it. The handle moves up/down and left/right in distinct motions.

Ceramic disc faucet — Single handle with a wide cylindrical body. High-end, modern design. Handle moves up for on and rotates for temperature.

Before You Start

Gather these tools and supplies:

Adjustable wrench
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Allen wrench set (for handles with set screws)
Replacement parts (identified below by faucet type)
Plumber’s grease
Towel or rag

Step one for every faucet repair:

Turn off the water supply valves under the sink (turn clockwise until tight).
Turn on the faucet to release remaining pressure and drain residual water.
Plug the drain with a rag so you do not lose small parts. If your drain is already slow, see our guide on how to unclog a drain without chemicals while you have things apart.

Fixing a Compression Faucet

This is the most common type to develop leaks because it relies on rubber washers that wear out.

What is usually wrong: The rubber seat washer at the bottom of the stem is compressed flat or cracked.

How to fix:

Remove the decorative cap on the handle (pry gently with a flathead screwdriver).
Remove the handle screw and pull the handle off.
Use the wrench to unscrew the packing nut beneath the handle.
Pull the stem straight out.
At the bottom of the stem, you will see a rubber washer held by a brass screw. Remove the screw and the old washer.
Take the old washer to the hardware store to match the exact size. Bring the stem too if you are unsure.
Install the new washer, coat it lightly with plumber’s grease, and reassemble in reverse order.
If the faucet still leaks, the valve seat (the brass fitting the washer presses against) may be damaged. You can resurface it with a seat grinding tool ($10) or replace the seat if it is removable.

Cost: $3-5 for a washer assortment pack.

Fixing a Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have many small parts, which makes them more prone to leaking but also straightforward to repair with a kit.

What is usually wrong: Worn springs and rubber valve seats inside the faucet body, or a worn ball.

How to fix:

Buy a ball faucet repair kit for your brand. These kits include all the internal parts and a special tool for under $10. Much easier than identifying individual parts.
Remove the handle set screw (usually an Allen screw on the side).
Pull off the handle.
Use the kit’s special wrench to remove the cap and cam.
Lift out the cam washer and the ball.
Inside the faucet body, use needle-nose pliers to remove the rubber seats and springs (there are two, one for hot and one for cold).
Install the new springs and seats from the kit, pushing them into place with a pencil.
Reassemble with the new cam washer, cam, and ball from the kit.
Hand-tighten the cap, reinstall the handle, and test.

Cost: $8-12 for a complete repair kit.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are reliable, and when they leak, the fix is straightforward: replace the cartridge.

What is usually wrong: The cartridge itself is worn or cracked internally.

How to fix:

Remove the decorative cap and handle screw. Pull off the handle.
If there is a retaining clip (a U-shaped metal clip holding the cartridge), pull it out with pliers.
Grip the cartridge stem with pliers and pull it straight out. It may be stuck from mineral buildup. If so, use a cartridge puller tool ($10) or gently rock it side to side while pulling.
Take the old cartridge to the hardware store to match the replacement. Brand and model matter here.
Apply plumber’s grease to the new cartridge O-rings.
Push the new cartridge in, making sure it is oriented the same way (note the hot/cold position before removing the old one).
Replace the retaining clip, handle, and cap.

Cost: $5-15 for a replacement cartridge depending on brand.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets rarely leak, but when they do, it is usually because the seals need replacing rather than the disc itself.

What is usually wrong: The neoprene seals on the underside of the ceramic disc cylinder are worn.

How to fix:

Remove the handle (usually an Allen set screw under a decorative cap).
Remove the escutcheon cap (the dome-shaped cover) by unscrewing it.
Unscrew the disc cylinder mounting screws and lift out the cylinder.
On the underside, you will see neoprene seals in the inlet ports. Pry them out gently.
Clean the cylinder openings with white vinegar to remove mineral deposits.
Install new seals (available as a kit for your faucet brand).
Reassemble. When turning the water back on, turn it on very slowly. A sudden blast of water can crack the ceramic disc.

Cost: $5-10 for a seal kit.

When the Leak Is at the Base

If water pools around the base of the faucet rather than dripping from the spout:

Single-handle faucets: The O-rings around the faucet body are worn. Remove the handle and spout, replace the O-rings, and apply plumber’s grease before reassembling.
Compression faucets: The packing nut may be loose (tighten it 1/8 turn) or the stem packing/O-ring needs replacing.

When to Call a Plumber

Handle it yourself in most cases, but call a professional if:

The shut-off valves under the sink do not fully stop the water (the valves themselves need replacing first).
You see corrosion or mineral damage on the valve seat that a grinding tool cannot fix.
The faucet is old enough that replacement parts are unavailable. At that point, replacing the entire faucet ($50-150 for the fixture plus $150-200 for installation) is more cost-effective. If you are planning a larger update, check our bathroom remodel cost breakdown to budget the full project.
You are uncomfortable working with plumbing. There is no shame in calling a pro.

Estimated Savings

	DIY	Plumber
Parts	$3-15	$3-15
Labor	Free (20-30 min)	$150-250
Total	$3-15	$150-265

Fixing a leaky faucet yourself saves $150 or more and takes less time than waiting for the plumber to show up.